Desert Stormtrooper Armor Weathering
weathering can be achevied using Woodland Scenics' Earth Colors
Liquid Pigments. We recommend purchasing 4 oz. bottles of Raw Umber
(mfg. part # C1221), Yellow Ocher (mfg.
part # C1223), and
Burnt Umber (mfg.
part # C1222). We recommend you but pigments directly from
The pigment goes on as
a liquid and dries, within minutes, to a dust that sticks to plastic.
However, it can be removed without hassle and it won't damage ABS!
Even after prolonged exposure the pigment can be wiped from the
armor with a damp cloth.
Scenics' Earth Colors Liquid Pigments
also need Fuller's earth in natural color (a dusty tan color) and
grey. A 3lb container of each color will weather several suits of
armor. A little fuller's earth will go a very long way. We recommned
you buy fuller's earth from the Cine'
a piece of armor to be weathered. Make sure it is clean. For this example,
we used the breast plate.
The first layer we apply is Raw Umber
as it is the darkest color we will use and we want it to be toned
down by the layers that go over it. Dab pigment over the surface
of the armor using the tip of the sponge.
Pat the pigment with
a piece of crumpled paper towel to spread the color out, blend it
together and give it a random appreance.
AThis step may seem odd, but it is VERY important! Allow the pignment
to dry and then take a second crumpled paper towl and gently wipe of
most of the weathering. The pigment will naturally stick better in some
areas than others. make sure very little is left. We have a lot of layers
to go, and this is the darkest color so we do not want very much of it.
As you can see, the pigment REALLY brings out any scratches in the armor.
The second layer used is Burnt Umber which is more red in color and
lighter. While we covered the entire breast plate with the first coat,
we apply the Burnt Umber a bit more sparcely.
allow the pigment to dry and then take a crumpled paper towl
gently wipe of most of the weathering. We leave a bit more
of the Burnt Umber than we did the Raw Umber. You can actually begin
to see the weathering effect now.
As the chest is a heavily weathered areas and the particular trooper
we are replicating had a dark streak of grime on his right breast,
we made a second layer of Burnt Umber.
Again, the Burnt Umber is removed with a crumpled paper towl but even
less is removed than previously. We are beginning to see the weathering
patterns that will define this piece of armor.
We now add a layer of Yellow Ocher to tone done the umbers. The Yellow
Ocher is applied in a very spotty pattern, only covering about 50%
of the breast plate.
Once again a good deal of the Yellow Ocher is removed with a crumpled
To tone down the pigments and give the armor a dusty look instead of
a muddy appearance, a light layer of natural colored Fuller's earth
is applied with hair spray and a sponge brush. After that a bit of
grey Fuller's earth is applied to the right breast area to appropriately
darken it. Finally a soft bristled paint brush is used to take both
Fuller's earth and the pigments off od the high spots of the armor.
As the armor is worn it will continue to maturally "weather" and
more clean spots will appear in the areas that get the most wear.
This is a very tedious process. We recommend you have a friend help
you. If done correctly, the weathering of an entire suit will take
approximately 1 full day from start to finish.
January 8, 2007 8:46 PM